Overview & History
If Dali Ancient City is a hospitable host, then Xizhou is a hermit with profound knowledge—quiet, dignified, and rich with stories. Nestled 18 kilometers north of Dali, this ancient Bai town rests between the majestic Cangshan Mountains and the shimmering Erhai Lake, offering a tranquil escape from the bustle of Dali. With over 1,000 years of history, Xizhou was a military stronghold during the Nanzhao Kingdom (known as "Dalicheng") and later became the birthplace of the famed "Xizhou Merchant Gang" during the Qing Dynasty. Its wealth and cultural legacy are etched into the town's fabric, where hundreds of well-preserved Bai residential houses showcase exquisite architectural artistry. Unlike the polished ancient city, Xizhou retains a raw, authentic charm—a living museum where tradition breathes alongside daily life.
Highlights & Activities
Wander the Ancient Streets
Start your journey at Zhengyi Gate, the western entrance to the old town. Just a few hundred meters in, you'll encounter a 500-year-old banyan tree so massive it takes several adults to encircle it—an iconic symbol of Xizhou. Continue to Sifang Street, the central square lined with shops and eateries, where you can soak in the vibrant local atmosphere. Don't miss the Ziyunshan Temple, a Qing-dynasty structure that, though weathered, serves as a gathering spot for elderly locals who bask in the sun and share stories.
Explore Bai Architecture
Xizhou is a treasure trove of Bai residential designs, featuring the classic "three rooms and one screen wall" and "four courtyards and five patios" layouts. The Yan Family Residence, near Sifang Street, offers a glimpse into the opulence of the town's former leading merchant clan. Its intricate wood carvings, stone carvings, and colorful screen wall inscriptions reveal the wealth and taste of old merchants. The Yang Pinxiang Residence, to the east, boasts even more elaborate carvings and a stunningly ornate gate tower. For a quick immersion, the Yan Family Courtyard nearby is equally impressive.
Capture the Iconic Corner Tower
The semi-enclosed Corner Tower in the town center is the most photogenic landmark—a must for your camera roll. For a broader view, head to the rice fields outside the core area, where the orange-yellow wall of Xilin Yuan stands out vividly against the green waves of crops. These fields change with the seasons: rapeseed flowers spread gold in spring, rice paddies ripple green in summer, and amber waves signal autumn. Rent a bicycle and ride along the field ridges, where the fragrance of rice blends with the historical atmosphere.
Experience Local Culture
Watch for the tinkling bells of Yunnan horse-drawn carriages, pulled by short-legged horses known for their steady endurance—a charming mode of transport unique to the town. At the Yan Family Residence, you can enjoy Bai dance performances and taste the traditional "Three-Course Tea," a cultural ritual that blends bitter, sweet, and aftertaste flavors.
Key Attractions Nearby
Dali Ancient City (18 km south): A lively hub with bustling streets, restaurants, and nightlife, contrasting Xizhou's serenity.
Erhai Lake: Just east of Xizhou, this vast lake offers cycling routes, boat rides, and stunning sunset views.
Cangshan Mountains: West of the town, these peaks provide hiking trails and panoramic vistas.
Zhoucheng Village: A short drive away, known for authentic Bai tie-dye (batik) workshops.
Where to Dine
Xizhou Baba (喜洲粑粑) – The town's signature street food, available in two varieties: sweet (rose-flavored, rich and fragrant) and savory (scallion oil with minced pork, crispy and aromatic). Priced at just 3 yuan each, they're best enjoyed fresh from the oven. The most authentic spot is at the southwest corner of Sifang Street, near the Yan Family Old Residence.
Roasted Milk Fan (烤乳扇) – A local snack made from goat's milk, grilled and served with sweet or savory toppings.
Cold Rice Noodles (凉鸡米线) – A refreshing, tangy dish perfect for warm days, featuring shredded chicken and rice noodles.
Fresh Juice Stalls – Scattered along the streets, offering affordable and thirst-quenching options like sugarcane or pomegranate juice.
For a sit-down meal, try small eateries around Sifang Street serving Bai specialties such as sour fish and steam pot chicken.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Xizhou enjoys a mild, subtropical highland climate with distinct seasons. Spring (March to May) brings blooming flowers and pleasant temperatures (15–25°C), ideal for outdoor exploration. Summer (June to August) is warmer but can see occasional rain, while autumn (September to November) offers clear skies, golden rice fields, and comfortable weather—the best time for photography. Winter (December to February) is cool (5–15°C) but sunny, with fewer crowds. Peak tourist season is during national holidays (May Day, October Golden Week), so plan accordingly for a quieter experience.
Travel Tips
- Getting There: From Dali Ancient City, take a minibus heading north on Dali Road or National Highway 214—flag one down and pay about 7 yuan. The journey takes 30–40 minutes.
- Fees & Hours: Xizhou town is free to enter and open 24/7 (phone: 0872-2453966). Some attractions like the Yan Family Residence charge a small entrance fee (around 25 yuan) for access to performances and tea.
- What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes for cobblestone streets; a light jacket or sweater for cooler evenings; sunscreen and a hat for sunny days; a reusable water bottle; and cash, as some stalls may not accept cards.
- Avoiding Scams: Some local tricycle drivers may try to take you directly to Yan Family Residence to sell tickets. Politely decline and walk into the town via other routes if you prefer a free exploration.
- Photography: Early morning or late afternoon offers the best light for capturing the Corner Tower and rice fields. Respect locals' privacy when taking photos of people.
- Seasonal Note: If visiting in summer, the fields may be lush green but without the golden rice waves of autumn. Check the crop cycle for your desired scenery.
